Chris Sharma Céüse has been in the past two weeks, climbing and equipping new routes. At the end of your stay we could interview him.
Is it different when you perform preparation climb a multi-pitch route with shorter routes?
I still have much to learn about the process of climbing some of these great walls. Notice and equip a new path is much more complicated, because you are at a great height above the ground and a long path is essentially 7 7 way, so the logistics and the time it takes to establish lines makes you much more involved. But, of course, that strategically, when you have to tackle the track, will be much more complex.
I think these two styles complement climbing. Having been climbing on multi-pitch routes for a few days, now I can be motivated to retry my projects one length. And likewise, try some of these difficult projects that take you to the limit, in which I have been working, which may be of 9b + or similar, it is difficult to maintain this level of motivation all the time, try some of these movements as hard , for this is great to mix the two styles to climb something that is equally challenging, but otherwise.
I still have much to learn about the process of climbing some of these great walls. Notice and equip a new path is much more complicated, because you are at a great height above the ground and a long path is essentially 7 7 way, so the logistics and the time it takes to establish lines makes you much more involved. But, of course, that strategically, when you have to tackle the track, will be much more complex.
I think these two styles complement climbing. Having been climbing on multi-pitch routes for a few days, now I can be motivated to retry my projects one length. And likewise, try some of these difficult projects that take you to the limit, in which I have been working, which may be of 9b + or similar, it is difficult to maintain this level of motivation all the time, try some of these movements as hard , for this is great to mix the two styles to climb something that is equally challenging, but otherwise.
Chris, what have you been doing lately?I still live in Catalonia (Spain) and I have been working on many different projects lately. I think it's really important to progress in climbing to be motivated and have the feeling that you are doing something new and not rest on our laurels ... I've been a very good year to explore other facets of climbing. Specifically, I have been focused on applying what I've been doing sports to the big walls, so I've been working on a couple of projects of multi-pitch routes, one that is close to where we live and another in Mallorca. It was a totally different experience and motivates much do something that is new, yet very similar. It motivates me to continue in this new direction, while still working in sports projects.
Most important in climbing, to keep climbing for life is renewed motivation somehow. A key factor is the progression: try to make you stronger and undertake difficult routes. What's interesting is that when scales can continue to progress not only in difficulty, but also to your own experiences, traveling to new destinations and opening new routes. The process of making the first ascent of a route and find a new line, is an immense feeling of progression, although it is not the hard way that you did. You get the feeling that you're learning and progressing in some way ...
Do the difficult multi-pitch routes are the next step in the escalation of art?
For me, applying what is done in the sport climbing multi-pitch routes is a natural progression of climbing. As the block: for many years, I focused on the block and could be applied to these sequences gymnastic sport routes. So is a similar progression: collect everything we have experienced, mix all these experiences and apply them to make something new.This ... this is what really motivates. It is important to do a bit of everything and always renewing the focus of climbing. Also, after several years of leaving a little aside the block, now I want to start with the block to maintain motivation. At the same time the block is the essence of high difficulty climbing these projects really a long hard: think back to practice block to progress is the solution, pure strength work, do everything and always try to recycle ideas and motivation to not be tired.
So do most block?
What I like is that the block is very spontaneous. Wear cat's feet into the backpack and go. It's fascinating. Climbing multi-pitch routes requires more planning. But what attracts me the block is the spontaneous appearance of being able to go wherever you want. But at one point, the blocks are becoming higher and more committed falls so just taking you 10 or 15 crash pads to work a block problem. Just then is when it is much less heavy to carry a backpack with some climbing equipment and rope. I guess it's a matter of finding the right balance.
For me, applying what is done in the sport climbing multi-pitch routes is a natural progression of climbing. As the block: for many years, I focused on the block and could be applied to these sequences gymnastic sport routes. So is a similar progression: collect everything we have experienced, mix all these experiences and apply them to make something new.This ... this is what really motivates. It is important to do a bit of everything and always renewing the focus of climbing. Also, after several years of leaving a little aside the block, now I want to start with the block to maintain motivation. At the same time the block is the essence of high difficulty climbing these projects really a long hard: think back to practice block to progress is the solution, pure strength work, do everything and always try to recycle ideas and motivation to not be tired.
So do most block?
What I like is that the block is very spontaneous. Wear cat's feet into the backpack and go. It's fascinating. Climbing multi-pitch routes requires more planning. But what attracts me the block is the spontaneous appearance of being able to go wherever you want. But at one point, the blocks are becoming higher and more committed falls so just taking you 10 or 15 crash pads to work a block problem. Just then is when it is much less heavy to carry a backpack with some climbing equipment and rope. I guess it's a matter of finding the right balance.
How is currently climbing in Spain, where many major roads are difficult chaining?I have the impression that every 10-15 years climbing strategic points change places. 15 years ago, climbing mecca was here in the south of France. Recently, for some years, is in Spain ... has become a destination. It is a very special moment.For me, when I started climbing in Catalonia, and met Dani Andrada, six years ago, I was very inspired to climb in places like Siurana, Margalef and see the potential in other walls, as Oliana and Santa Linya. Many people will climb there, always being renewed motivation. And for me is fine, because even if sometimes I miss California and I am far from my house, probably more now I see my friends and family than before, because I have one foot on the floor. Many people come to see us and we always have friends at home between September and May.
What are your favorite places to climb in Spain?
We have really focused on the same areas, as Margalef and Oliana, and I am very motivated with some new areas. But Céüse again reminds me why I love this area so much climbing. Walls are more perfect than I've climbed in my life. There is no place better than you are, you know, just concentrate on what you do and be motivated.
What are your plans for this summer?
After Céüse, we return to Spain for a while, then we go to Salt Lake City for the Outdoor Retailer trade show. Then organize a youth camp with my friends Yo! Bishop Basecamp and be in to block for about 10 days with a group of youths. We had fun and it's time to have fun with friends who organize this camp. I'm excited to repeat every year. I will spend a month in California to see my family, my sponsors and contact back in September when temperatures have already fallen in Spain. I have wanted to return to work some of these multi-pitch routes and some routes in Oliana. Then we'll go to Argentina for the Petzl RocTrip in November. This will be a great year.
Daila Ojeda climbing 8a + in Céüse - © Lafouche
Do we leave a message for the younger climbers?
I would encourage young people everywhere who have been climbing for several years or just starting to have a good time. I think it is about finding ways of quality and not necessarily about getting high grades but what matters is the experience and have fun climbing. Would encourage them to leave and go to scale in all super way to have the chance to climb. Climbing is a sport amazing in this regard. It is more than a sport, it's a lifestyle, you can travel and see beautiful places, meet nice people, so I think we are very fortunate to be part of this sport.
I would encourage young people everywhere who have been climbing for several years or just starting to have a good time. I think it is about finding ways of quality and not necessarily about getting high grades but what matters is the experience and have fun climbing. Would encourage them to leave and go to scale in all super way to have the chance to climb. Climbing is a sport amazing in this regard. It is more than a sport, it's a lifestyle, you can travel and see beautiful places, meet nice people, so I think we are very fortunate to be part of this sport.
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