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Chris Sharma - Back to Céüse
Chris Sharma Céüse has been in the past two weeks, climbing and equipping new routes. At the end of your stay we could interview him.
Is it different when you perform preparation climb a multi-pitch route with shorter routes?
I still have much to learn about the process of climbing some of these great walls. Notice and equip a new path is much more complicated, because you are at a great height above the ground and a long path is essentially 7 7 way, so the logistics and the time it takes to establish lines makes you much more involved. But, of course, that strategically, when you have to tackle the track, will be much more complex.
I think these two styles complement climbing. Having been climbing on multi-pitch routes for a few days, now I can be motivated to retry my projects one length. And likewise, try some of these difficult projects that take you to the limit, in which I have been working, which may be of 9b + or similar, it is difficult to maintain this level of motivation all the time, try some of these movements as hard , for this is great to mix the two styles to climb something that is equally challenging, but otherwise.
I still have much to learn about the process of climbing some of these great walls. Notice and equip a new path is much more complicated, because you are at a great height above the ground and a long path is essentially 7 7 way, so the logistics and the time it takes to establish lines makes you much more involved. But, of course, that strategically, when you have to tackle the track, will be much more complex.
I think these two styles complement climbing. Having been climbing on multi-pitch routes for a few days, now I can be motivated to retry my projects one length. And likewise, try some of these difficult projects that take you to the limit, in which I have been working, which may be of 9b + or similar, it is difficult to maintain this level of motivation all the time, try some of these movements as hard , for this is great to mix the two styles to climb something that is equally challenging, but otherwise.
Chris, what have you been doing lately?I still live in Catalonia (Spain) and I have been working on many different projects lately. I think it's really important to progress in climbing to be motivated and have the feeling that you are doing something new and not rest on our laurels ... I've been a very good year to explore other facets of climbing. Specifically, I have been focused on applying what I've been doing sports to the big walls, so I've been working on a couple of projects of multi-pitch routes, one that is close to where we live and another in Mallorca. It was a totally different experience and motivates much do something that is new, yet very similar. It motivates me to continue in this new direction, while still working in sports projects.
Most important in climbing, to keep climbing for life is renewed motivation somehow. A key factor is the progression: try to make you stronger and undertake difficult routes. What's interesting is that when scales can continue to progress not only in difficulty, but also to your own experiences, traveling to new destinations and opening new routes. The process of making the first ascent of a route and find a new line, is an immense feeling of progression, although it is not the hard way that you did. You get the feeling that you're learning and progressing in some way ...
Do the difficult multi-pitch routes are the next step in the escalation of art?
For me, applying what is done in the sport climbing multi-pitch routes is a natural progression of climbing. As the block: for many years, I focused on the block and could be applied to these sequences gymnastic sport routes. So is a similar progression: collect everything we have experienced, mix all these experiences and apply them to make something new.This ... this is what really motivates. It is important to do a bit of everything and always renewing the focus of climbing. Also, after several years of leaving a little aside the block, now I want to start with the block to maintain motivation. At the same time the block is the essence of high difficulty climbing these projects really a long hard: think back to practice block to progress is the solution, pure strength work, do everything and always try to recycle ideas and motivation to not be tired.
So do most block?
What I like is that the block is very spontaneous. Wear cat's feet into the backpack and go. It's fascinating. Climbing multi-pitch routes requires more planning. But what attracts me the block is the spontaneous appearance of being able to go wherever you want. But at one point, the blocks are becoming higher and more committed falls so just taking you 10 or 15 crash pads to work a block problem. Just then is when it is much less heavy to carry a backpack with some climbing equipment and rope. I guess it's a matter of finding the right balance.
For me, applying what is done in the sport climbing multi-pitch routes is a natural progression of climbing. As the block: for many years, I focused on the block and could be applied to these sequences gymnastic sport routes. So is a similar progression: collect everything we have experienced, mix all these experiences and apply them to make something new.This ... this is what really motivates. It is important to do a bit of everything and always renewing the focus of climbing. Also, after several years of leaving a little aside the block, now I want to start with the block to maintain motivation. At the same time the block is the essence of high difficulty climbing these projects really a long hard: think back to practice block to progress is the solution, pure strength work, do everything and always try to recycle ideas and motivation to not be tired.
So do most block?
What I like is that the block is very spontaneous. Wear cat's feet into the backpack and go. It's fascinating. Climbing multi-pitch routes requires more planning. But what attracts me the block is the spontaneous appearance of being able to go wherever you want. But at one point, the blocks are becoming higher and more committed falls so just taking you 10 or 15 crash pads to work a block problem. Just then is when it is much less heavy to carry a backpack with some climbing equipment and rope. I guess it's a matter of finding the right balance.
How is currently climbing in Spain, where many major roads are difficult chaining?I have the impression that every 10-15 years climbing strategic points change places. 15 years ago, climbing mecca was here in the south of France. Recently, for some years, is in Spain ... has become a destination. It is a very special moment.For me, when I started climbing in Catalonia, and met Dani Andrada, six years ago, I was very inspired to climb in places like Siurana, Margalef and see the potential in other walls, as Oliana and Santa Linya. Many people will climb there, always being renewed motivation. And for me is fine, because even if sometimes I miss California and I am far from my house, probably more now I see my friends and family than before, because I have one foot on the floor. Many people come to see us and we always have friends at home between September and May.
What are your favorite places to climb in Spain?
We have really focused on the same areas, as Margalef and Oliana, and I am very motivated with some new areas. But Céüse again reminds me why I love this area so much climbing. Walls are more perfect than I've climbed in my life. There is no place better than you are, you know, just concentrate on what you do and be motivated.
What are your plans for this summer?
After Céüse, we return to Spain for a while, then we go to Salt Lake City for the Outdoor Retailer trade show. Then organize a youth camp with my friends Yo! Bishop Basecamp and be in to block for about 10 days with a group of youths. We had fun and it's time to have fun with friends who organize this camp. I'm excited to repeat every year. I will spend a month in California to see my family, my sponsors and contact back in September when temperatures have already fallen in Spain. I have wanted to return to work some of these multi-pitch routes and some routes in Oliana. Then we'll go to Argentina for the Petzl RocTrip in November. This will be a great year.
Daila Ojeda climbing 8a + in Céüse - © Lafouche
Do we leave a message for the younger climbers?
I would encourage young people everywhere who have been climbing for several years or just starting to have a good time. I think it is about finding ways of quality and not necessarily about getting high grades but what matters is the experience and have fun climbing. Would encourage them to leave and go to scale in all super way to have the chance to climb. Climbing is a sport amazing in this regard. It is more than a sport, it's a lifestyle, you can travel and see beautiful places, meet nice people, so I think we are very fortunate to be part of this sport.
I would encourage young people everywhere who have been climbing for several years or just starting to have a good time. I think it is about finding ways of quality and not necessarily about getting high grades but what matters is the experience and have fun climbing. Would encourage them to leave and go to scale in all super way to have the chance to climb. Climbing is a sport amazing in this regard. It is more than a sport, it's a lifestyle, you can travel and see beautiful places, meet nice people, so I think we are very fortunate to be part of this sport.
Parkour
Nice blog Aldrin! Here's a prize to your admiration for climbing, an assasin's creed adaptation to real life parkour!! Enjoy!
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"A Chris Sharma climb loves Cataluña"
"A Chris Sharma climb loves Cataluña"
WHAT HAVE YOU LEARNED FROM THE
CLIMBING YOU CAN APPLY TO YOUR LIFE?
That things do not happen by themselves, to be 100% effort and never give up to achieve your goals. And nature.Climbers are privileged: we are always in the bush, in the most amazing places. And that, like it or not, it changes your perspective on life and have great influence on you.
HOW LONG SCALES PER YEAR?
Almost all year. Here in Catalunya, the conditions are good from September through June. In summer I go out and travel the world.
HOW DO YOU CHOOSE THE PROJECTS, THE PLACES YOU WANT TO CLIMB? AND HOW DO YOU PREPARE FOR IT?
I'm always looking for new projects. Seeking the world's toughest walls, but that's not enough. The place has to be nice and somehow inspiring. The climbing is much like art and sports. By this I mean, that aesthetics is very important. Think rock type greatly affects the style of movements you make when scales ..
YOU'RE IN LOVE WITH SPAIN ...
He had 10 years traveling the world and it was not until I came here I felt I could spend a long time in one place. That was five years ago and I have moved very little since. Catalunya is a popular place in regards to escalation. There is the largest concentration of what we call hard routes. There's enough here to rock exploration hundred lives, not to mention how happy I am with the family and friends I have made.
"As you climb, you compete against yourself"
"As you climb, you compete against yourself"
DOES ANYONE REMEMBER THAT ESPECIALLY?
Cordless climbing on the cliffs of Mallorca have been in situations that might call pretty dodgy. But hey, it's really dangerous are the small details as well make a knot.
DOES ANYONE REMEMBER THAT ESPECIALLY?
Cordless climbing on the cliffs of Mallorca have been in situations that might call pretty dodgy. But hey, it's really dangerous are the small details as well make a knot.
IMAGINE YOU WANT TO START ON THIS. WHAT DO I DO?
In almost every city there are climbing walls. I think that's a very good way to start. It is a safe environment. In addition, people who know rock scale on weekends, so that little by little you are entering the scene.
HOW DO YOU STAY IN SHAPE? ARE YOU GOING TO THE GYM, YOU'RE SOME KIND OF DIET?
Climbing is a sport that activates the whole body, hence it is so complete. But hey, for the aerobic work suits me running or hiking.
THE CLIMB HAS A LOT OF COMPETITION AGAINST ONESELF.
So I think something so attractive. It is a very personal activity: absolutely all people who practice it feel its essence. And it lets you overcome challenges you thought impossible for you.
SPEAKING OF CHALLENGES, HAVE YOU FOUND YOUR LIMIT AS A CLIMBER?
I think I'm progressing slowly. When I start a project I always think it will be the most important thing I ever did in my career ... until another start. There are so many ways of climbing (soloing, sport, big wall, climbing ...) that one can always find new experiences
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